Welcome to the second instalment of Kit’s
Cucina’s Trip to Italy, Rome special.
This instalment, let’s talk about “cacio e pepe”.
While we were in Rome, my wife was thrilled
to remake her acquaintance with this dish; essentially cheese and pepper with
pasta. This is a quintessentially “Rome” (as opposed to Roman) dish. Jane particularly liked it because it
ticked her "simple but tasty" boxes while not being considered a kid’s meal or
pretend food.
Cacio e Pepe
Purists only use pecorino (a sheep milk
cheese) and pepper for this dish, and I have even seen some restauranteurs
simply rolling pasta in a whole wheel of this cheese to serve. But considering your wallet, and this
version's need to run a couple of pans, I’d supplement the pecorino with
parmigiana and warm the pepper first in some olive oil, with a little bit of
garlic to make it officially Italian.
The real trick is to preserve the pasta cooking water and use this to
lube up the cheese sauce so it goes slick and covers the pasta. To wit, my version:
Ingredienti:
Pasta: spaghetti, 1 pack (400 g)
Salt
Pecorino: 320g grated
Parmigiano: 120g grated
Freshly cracked pepper
Olive oil
Garlic (a couple of cloves)
1.
Cook the pasta in a large
pot of salty water. When the spaghetti is
approximately 2 minutes off perfect, drain the pasta and save about a cup of
the starchy water for use in the sauce.
2.
In a large pan, heat a couple
of tablespoons of olive oil on a low heat, then roughly crack black pepper into
it. Quite a lot actually, more
than you’d think… at least 2 teaspoons worth. Also throw in a couple of crushed garlic cloves (optional –
not in the real deal), and warm through to flavour the oil (do not let the
garlic brown, but get it transclucent).
3.
Tip the cooked pasta into the pan with
the oil, pepper and garlic, turn off heat, and toss in the cheeses. Now add the warm cooking water, a bit at a
time, to get the consistency right; the cheese sauce should wind up like thick
cream coating the pasta.
4.
Serve in four warmed pasta
bowls, and top with additional cracked pepper and grated cheese.
Top end gourmet Italian restaurants in Rome
would serve this dish with the pasta spiraled neatly on the plate. Here’s a video that shows you how,
though I think they could have got more on the fork, and with the cheese sauce
you would roll it up with the ladle on an angel and get more sauce covering.
Next week, some restaurant tips in Rome…
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